2005 Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Schlossberg Riesling Spätlese

Displaying the typical charred, earthy notes of this site in the nose, along with mint and grapefruit, the Selbachs' 2005 Zeltinger Schlossberg Riesling Spatlese practically explodes on the palate, with sweet florality, talcum, mint, grapefruit, fresh apple, and a pungent, spicy, honeyed burst of botrytis. This is quite voluminous, yet remains firm and bright. Spearmint, brown spices, wet stone, char, and grapefruit zest all join apple and honey in a rich yet irresistibly refreshing finish. The 2005 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese comes from ancient vines in several of the Selbachs best parcels in the core of the Sonnenuhr. Heady, sweet and exotic floral notes waft from the glass, along with scents of vanilla, apple jelly, and pungent grapefruit rind and lemon oil. On the glossy, rich yet bright palate, high-toned peach, pear nectar, and honey ally themselves with apple, vanilla, flowers, and citrus in a colorful reflection of a great Mosel site. There is such intensity and diversity of fruit in the finish that one cannot really talk about subtlety, but one can certainly talk about a superb, ageworthy Riesling. “For me, 2005 is a singular vintage in my career,” says Johannes Selbach, “in that it is ripe, multi-faceted, and has excellent acidity. You can pick any of the other recent classics – 1975, 1990 ... . Each of the benchmark years is great in its way, however here you have a combination that is fun to drink now, ten years from now, and in thirty years as well. It remains to be seen, but I think 2005 is in another league.” Readers will indeed be hard pressed this year to find another address with this many consistently outstanding wines, and when has there ever been a more diverse and at the same time magnificent array of Auslesen? In their upper reaches, the Selbach 2005s seem – like Zilliken's, but in their own unique way – to chart a trajectory beyond the normal course for their vintage. The harvest here extended from mid-October to mid-November. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300