2023 Keller Piesporter Schubertslay Riesling Großes Gewächs Alte Reben
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Tasting notes
The 2023 Riesling Schubertslay Alte Reben Grosses Gewächs is from un-grafted vines planted from 1898 to 1902. Keller says that working this site is like mountaineering. The 2023 harvest yielded only 12 hl/ha. The nose is a step change over to the salty, dark depth of Mosel slate. The palate is finely drawn, leaving a trace of lemon everywhere it touches the stony ground. This leads a merry, intricate, playful and seductive dance, flirting, flitting, smiling, always with promise, never pinned down. While the wine has this teasing character at the moment, its essence dives deep to the purity and radiance of slate and citrus—taut, straight, dry and eternally bright. The lemony length, almost with a touch of Tarocco orange, is astonishing, and the slaty stoniness is, likewise, absolutely pristine. Available at auction: 120 six-packs of three bottles each and six magnum, two-packs each of one magnum each of Schubertslay GG and Pettenthal GG. (Bone-dry)
Critic scores
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Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com
Anne Krebiehl MW, Vinous
More reviews and scores
Own-rooted 120-year-old vines, only the third time they have made a Grosses Gewächs since 2018, yield less than 15 hl/ha. In 2027 they will hand the lease back to the church because the vineyard requires so many person hours, and it is not on their doorstep. One small tank and one small barrel. Tank sample. Completely different from the other wines grown on slate (Niersteiner Hipping and Pettenthal). Sweeter fruited, more peachy, but, with air, the same smoky lift. Ripe spicy pears add to the layers. In the mouth, this has outstanding intensity, no lack of salty freshness but the power of the fruit is remarkable. Extreme length and depth at the same time. Unendlich , to quote F X Pichler, who gave this name to one of his wines. (JH)
About the producer
Based in the Rheinhessen, Keller is one of the finest Riesling producers in the world, and has set the benchmark for German Pinot Noir.