2006 Domaine Henri Gouges Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Saint-Georges 1er Cru

The Gouges 2006 Nuits-St.-Georges Les St.-Georges evinces a sweet, liqueur-like concentration of blackberry and cherry, yet manages to retain a lovely suggestion of fresh fruit as well that is unexpected given the headiness and suggestive richness to its aromas. A clean meatiness underlies the lush fruit. There is plenty of tannin here but it is so refined – and the fruit so sweetly concentrated – that one has to attend closely to notice it, and the textural impression is one of silken refinement. This finishes exhilaratingly and with even greater persistence than the Vaucrains, although it doesn't for now displays as much detail or that wine's remarkable sense of mineral presence. It would be a shame to break open many bottles of this for the next 3-4 years, as it has probably got at least a dozen years' potential. To hear Christian Gouges tell – and, indeed, to taste the wines – there was nothing terribly problematic about 2006 or exceptional about his approach to it; he considers his (in the context of this vintage) relatively low finished alcohols of 12.5-13% ideal; and he says the wines all clarified beautifully without fining or filtration. I find the denser, more structured 2005s here are completely routed by the 2006s' charm offensive, though perhaps a return engagement half a dozen or more years from now will prove a fairer fight. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802

Sinewy and polished. Hint of coffee. Very chewy end. Just a bit awkward. (JR)

Good bright, deep red. Rather withdrawn but pure nose hints at dark berries, minerals and a menthol austerity. Tight, pure and imploded, with superb definition of flavor but very introverted today. A note of red licorice gives lift to the middle palate. This very young and extremely promising wine finishes with youthfully tough tannins that call for eight to ten years of patience.