2012 Vosne Romanee Les Suchots

The 2012 Vosne-Romanee 1er Cru Les Suchots is typically more extrovert and floral on the nose compared to the mild-mannered Les Brulees, with ‘buxom’ blueberry and blackberry aromas. The palate is very harmonious with succulent ripe red fruit: well-integrated new oak and a ripe, generous, sorbet-fresh finish that contains so much energy. This is a great Les Suchots. Approaching Domaine Gerard Mugneret, my car is suddenly surrounded by a swarm of merry elderly gentlemen wrapped up in scarves and overcoats. Not wishing to run anyone over, I just put the handbrake on and wait for the crowd to saunter up to the central square in Vosne-Romanee. When I met Pascal Mugneret I enquired their identity. He answered that his mother’s ecclesiastical connections had resulted in the priesthood requesting a winery visit, no doubt to make sure that their monastic ancestors knew what they were doing when establishing Burgundy’s most coveted vineyards. This was my second visit to the domaine in six months having tasted their 2011s back in June. The good news is that the 2012s, which were picked from 22 September, are even better and I think that is partly due to the decision to include 15% to 25% whole cluster fruit for the first time. It lends these wines more structure and freshness and Pascal remarked that he intends to repeat the practice again depending on the growing season. I was very impressed by these wines and when people ask me who the next star is in Vosne-Romanee, it is people like Pascal that come to mind. These wines were beautifully crafted, each expressive of their respective terroirs, full of tension and vigor, quite simply wines that probably satisfied this writer as much as the clergy. Bravo Pascal! Importer: Becky Wasserman Selection (various importers), Le Serbet, Beaune; fax 011-33-3-80-24-29-70