2009 Brunello di Montalcino

Sweeter oak on the nose than their Pelagrilli. Really great fruit character and no sense of overoaking on the palate, but there is less discernible development. The structure is ready to drink, but the flavours need maturation. (RH)

The 2009 Brunello di Montalcino is comprised of fruit from the northern half of the appellation harvested between October 5 to the 10 and fruit from the southern half harvested the last week of September. This range proved essential in maintaining the balance – especially between sweet fruit and acidity – that defines this beautiful wine. The use of wood (24 months in barrique) has also been executed with care and restraint adding more to the overall texture and richness of the wine than it does to the nose per se. Drink: 2016-2025. Year after year, Siro Pacenti (run by the detailed-minded Giancarlo Pacenti) is one of the estates I most enjoy tasting during my annual trip to Montalcino. Talk about hitting the nail on the head, even in a more challenging vintage like 2009. Both Brunellos presented this year are compelling, bright and show enough of the proverbial “baby fat” to carry through them through the years. The winery is located in the northern quadrant of the appellation, although some fruit for the base Brunello is sourced from Piancornello, in the far south of the production zone. Importer: Michael Skurnik Wines, www.skurnikwines.com

Youthful deep ruby. A little funky on the nose, then strawberry and cinnamon. The concentrated fruit could do with more acidity. Creamy notes on an astringent finish. (WS)