2009 L'Aventure Optimus

(50% syrah, 39% cabernet sauvignon and 11% petit verdot): Opaque purple. Deeply pitched black and blue fruits on the nose, with notes of cracked pepper and cured tobacco adding complexity. Densely packed and energetic, with a seamless texture to the sweet boysenberry and cassis flavors. Tannins arrive late and add grip to the very long, smoke-accented finish.

The 2009 Optimus Estate flows from the glass with masses of dark fruit, tar, smoke and licorice. It boasts a highly attractive, juicy personality and tons of harmony, in a style that can be best described as a baby version of the Estate Cuvee bottling. In 2009 the blend is 50% Syrah, 33% Cabernet Sauvignon and 17% Petit Verdot, with a total of 80% new oak.

The 2009 Optimus Estate flows from the glass with masses of dark fruit, tar, smoke and licorice. It boasts a highly attractive, juicy personality and tons of harmony, in a style that can be best described as a baby version of the Estate Cuvee bottling. In 2009 the blend is 50% Syrah, 33% Cabernet Sauvignon and 17% Petit Verdot, with a total of 80% new oak. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2017. Stephan Asseo is one of the most intriguing characters in the Paso Robles scene. A native of Pomerol, Asseo was attracted to Paso for its soil, microclimate and, most importantly of all, an opportunity to pursue the American dream with none of the constraints imposed by French regulations. Not surprisingly, Asseo’s wines show a clear connection to Bordeaux in the use of Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot, which are not widely planted in Paso. Most importantly, though, Asseo is one of the few producers in the area who is obsessed with the way his wines age, and in this respect a little Old World perspective can only be a good thing for a region just starting to write the first chapters of its present day history. The 2009s at L’Aventure were picked starting in September 3, on the early side for this property. The wines show plenty of radiant fruit and silky, textured personalities that are the result of a year with even, strong heat but no temperature spikes. Asseo describes the vintage as ‘very California.’ The reds were all aged in French oak and were bottled without fining or filtration just prior to my early June visit. The handful of 2010s I tasted from barrel also showed great promise. All of the L’Aventure wines are now made exclusively from estate-owned fruit and the property is in the process of being converted to biodynamic farming. Tel. (805) 227-1588; www.aventurewine.com