1989 Batard Montrachet

The 1989 Batard-Montrachet is more developed, richer, and intense than even the 1989 Chevalier-Montrachet. In a decade, the Chevalier will be the better wine. The Batard possesses a gorgeous aroma of oranges, flowers, butter, and minerals. In the mouth, it is pure buttery fruit supported admirably by crisp acidity and a deft touch of toasty new oak. A big wine by the Leflaive's standards, it should drink magnificently for at least 10-12 years. Although Leflaive's 1989s are top-notch, they are not as dramatic as one would expect from a vintage with the taste profile of 1989. I am not even sure if Leflaive's 1989s are as brilliant as their 1985s or 1986s. All of the great Burgundy domaines have a certain signature to their wines that is more recognizable than any perceived terroir character. In the case of the Domaine Leflaive (a reference point for all who cherish the finest in Chardonnay) that personality is one of uncompromising elegance, finesse, and purity of flavor. Anyone who has visited Leflaive has seen more water hoses than owned by the local fire department. Why? This is a domaine maniacal about pristine conditions in the cellars. The results, even in lighter vintages such as 1987, are admirable. The finest wines, of course, are the grands crus, but the biggest sleepers of the firm are the delicate Puligny-Montrachet-Les Pucelles and the fatter, richer, more husky Puligny-Montrachet-Les Combettes. Importer: Frederick Wildman and Co., New York, NY.