1990 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie La Mouline

Deeper red than the '91, but not quite as lucid. Initially withdrawn nose opened with aeration to show plum liqueur, tar, woodsmoke and game. Tightly wound and rather inexpressive in the middle palate; less expansive today than the '91, and showing surprising acidity. Here one senses the impact of drought on the ripening process. But this is dense, firm and powerful, with a long, peppery aftertaste and considerable aging potential. Will it ever show the complexity of the '91?

Proof that I'm not prejudiced against Guigal Côte Rôtie. This is a lovely wine. Modern in idiom certainly but with lift and richness as well as a sweet elegance. This lively wine is so accomplished as it dances across the palate that it is almost burgundian. (JR)

Very deep. Very, very deep crimson. Youngest looking of the 1990s. Some definite integration. Quite bloody but some perfume. Real class! Excitement. Lovely rich ripe fruit which totally covers the undoubtedly high tannin count. (JR)