2007 Chablis Les Lys

The Fevre 2007 Chablis Les Lys was (as usual for this site here) picked late and in multiple passes from 50-year-old vines (half tank- and half barrel-raised), and reflects its cool, eastern exposure in high-toned citrus oil and distilled pit fruits, along with what I think of as Saar-like, electric acidity, and overt salt and stone. Uncannily, though, all this is allied to a subtle creaminess of texture. Penetrating and persistently dynamic and mineral in finish, this vigorous wine should be given a couple of years in the bottle and ought to be worth following for 6-8 at least. Didier Seguier and his team have managed to follow up their amazing 2006s with an equally remarkable collection of 2007s (though he insists that 6 to 9 months after bottling – when I tasted them – “is the worst time for expressing the purity of fruit”!). Harvesting here began early, on September 6 – the earliest start on record save for 2003 – but without feeling any compunction about taking one’s time, Seguier emphasized. Even so, the task was completed in 11 days, harvesting fruit of impeccable ripeness and harmonious though prominent acidity at a time when many growers were wise not to have begun yet. Without question, the rigorous sorting that all of the grapes undergo here is among the keys to the purity and the transparency to nuance of these wines. As usual at this address, even when one reaches the roughly 80% level of barrique (none, new, though) a smell or taste of wood is the farthest thing from one’s mind. Importer: Henriot, Inc, New York, NY; tel. (212) 605-6706