2011 Gut Hermannsberg Traiser Bastei Riesling GG

I had become nervous by the time Gut Hermannsberg’s 2011 Traiser Bastei Riesling Grosses Gewachs came ‘round in their tasting line-up, because while admirable, the bottlings that had preceded it were decidedly austere in style, evoking far more mineral than fruit descriptors,; and more often than not, the Grosses Gewachs bottlings at a top Riesling establishment are the most adamantly mineral, with lack of fruit generosity not infrequently posing a drawback. I need not have worried! This one is loaded with luscious apricot and grapefruit while also harboring attractively earthy, herbal, nutty undertones that suggest roasted rutabaga and a smoky evocation of crushed stone infusion. For all of its satiny richness of texture and expansiveness, there is no sense of heaviness to this Riesling, and its estimable finish incorporates a pulsating fruit juiciness and saliva-liberating salinity. Look for at least 6-8 years of fascination and fun. Director Karsten Peter, new owners Jens Reidel and Dr. Christine Dinse, and their team (for more about whose recent evolution consult my reports in Issues 192 and 198) have demonstrated convincingly in 2011 that they are indeed the ones for whom lovers of Nahe Riesling have been waiting and hoping since the eclipse a quarter-century ago of this long-renowned former Nahe State Domaine, whose holdings on the Lower Nahe were in the mid-1990s relinquished (some of the best of which, thankfully, found their way to Diel and Rumpf), but whose precious vineyards in Niederhausen and Schlossbockelheim as well as along the Alsenz at Altenbamberg remained intact. (By the reciprocal non-conflict agreement detailed in my Issue 198 report, this estate’s holdings in the Hermannshohle have been leased to Donnhoff, while his holdings in the Kupfergrube will be farmed and vinified by Gut Hermannsberg.) “We really gave it gas,” notes Peter of the initial, late September phase of 2011 harvest, because the window to capture alcoholic levity and sprightly acidity in Pinot Blanc and basic Gutsriesling was narrow. After that, the pace could be relaxed, as it was at most addresses, and the top vineyards were largely picked between the 15th and 25th of October. Importer: Winemonger, Los Angeles, CA www.winemonger.com

Quite an opulent nose with more than a hint of tropical fruit. Chewy finish. The reverse succession of impressions of the Dr Crusius Bastei 2011 which was hard then soft. A bit confused. (JR)