2005 Domaine Joseph Roty Gevrey-Chambertin Cuvée Brunelle

From vines just behind the Roty winery comes their 2005 Gevrey-Chambertin La Brunelle, a wine with meat and mineral character to spare, but with rougher tannic structure than the Clos Prieur and with fruit pit bitterness, and a caramelized note to its black cherry and purple plum flavors, as well as distinctive iodine-like mineral and raw fresh meaty finishing notes. This formidably-concentrated Gevrey is another 2005 that displays a very dark personality, and is at present less harmonious as well as less smooth than many of its stable mates. But there is plenty of promise here. Philippe Roty and his brother have matters well in hand and are on their way to bottling (as always here, unfiltered) a superb collection of 2005s. That said, this won’t even begin happening until late Spring and some wines may not be bottled until year’s end. (Wines followed above by the initials P.R. are from Philippe’s vines and will be labeled with his name.) Prolonged skin contact and gentle but relentless extraction are the practice here, and in 2005 that has made for Pinots of almost shockingly deep color, abundant and firm but fine tannins, and terrific overall intensity. Also recommended: 2005 Marsannay (85-86+?). Importer: Alain Junguenet, Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; tel. (908) 654-6173.

Bright ruby-red. Perfumed nose combines blackberry, minerals and licorice. Suave, fine-grained and round, with insinuating flavors of blackberry, violet and licorice. Finishes with very fine, building tannins and superb aromatic persistence for a village wine.