2003 Josef Spreitzer Oestricher Lenchen Riesling Spätlese 303

Spreitzer's attempts to label this and other of their Lenchen wines with the parcel name Eiserberg continue to be legally thwarted. The "303," though, is permitted as a "fantasy name. " At 103 Oechsle and 100 grams of residual sugar, it almost goes without saying that this is Auslese-like. Flavors of peach and pear preserves drenched in honey, lemon curd and vanilla. For all of its gaudy display of ripeness, the wine preserves a refreshing core of citrus fruit and underlying stony, smoky minerality. Finishes in waves. Potential 2 stars.