2011 Keller Westhofener Brunnenhäuschen Abtserde Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewachs
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Tasting notes
Riding shotgun, the 2011 Westhofener Brunnenhauschen Abtserde Riesling Grosses Gewachs is a completely different wine. This is razor-sharp on the Zen-like nose of Granny Smith apples, struck flint notes and citrus peel; you could almost describe it as uncompromising. The palate has a citric spine and tastes quite saline, with hints of orange peel. Harmonious, penetrating and ethereal, this is a brilliant Riesling from Keller, but one that you have to meet on its own terms.
Critic scores
Average Score
Neal Martin, Vinous
David Schildknecht, Wine Advocate
More reviews and scores
The initial impression garnered from Keller's 2011 Westhofener Brunnenhauschen - Abtserde Riesling Grosses Gewachs is somewhat severe and tight, but it rapidly opens with airing and warmth to reveal a dynamic interaction of deeply-etched, predominantly piquant scents and flavors: boxwood and rosemary; rowan, buddleia and heliotrope; apple and white peach with prominent pip and pit; grapefruit and kumquat with prominent zest; stone, salt, struck flint, and alkali. There's such energy and grip in the finish you think your mouth can't contain it! Yet there is at the same time a billowing, wafting sense of what can only be called capital "E" elegance. This remarkable wine should be enthralling to follow over the coming decade and beyond, and a bottle that had been open for a day was even more compelling than one freshly-opened.
About the producer
Based in the Rheinhessen, Keller is one of the finest Riesling producers in the world, and has set the benchmark for German Pinot Noir.