2015 Keller Sylvaner Feuervogel

Keller's 2015 Silvaner Feuervogel offers a deep and subtle, very clear, fresh, elegant and aromatic nose of white and yellow-fleshed fruits (grapefruits and limes in the beginning, stone fruits after more aeration). There are also perfectly ripe pip fruit aromas and some smoky flavors. Medium to full-bodied, round and very elegant on the palate, this has an attractive, stimulating minerality, a vivid acidity and lingering salinity. This is a perfectly clear, highly delicate and perfectly balanced Sylvaner with a good grip and a dry, clear finish. A gorgeous Sylvaner.

Fermented in 2,400-litre casks. 55-year-old vines. Very dry first half of the year, producing small, thick-skinned berries and high skin to flesh ratio. Only 'positive stress'. Cold nights so the acidity did not drop: TA 8.5 g/l. Picked last week of September. Klaus Peter Keller explains that a hundred years ago, more than 50% of the region was planted with this variety and suggests it might 'reflect the soul of Rheinhessen like no other variety'. This shares a family likeness with the Grüner Silvaner but more intense in a subtle way. A restrained intensity. Very smoky and stony on the nose, delicately herbal. Dry and so tight and then finishes both dusty/mineral and fragrant. Power in a restrained style. (JH)