2011 Sancerre La Grande Cote

Caraway, toasted pine nuts, candied grapefruit rind, papaya, litchi, and bacon fat on the nose and broad, subtly creamy palate of Pascal Cotat’s 2011 Sancerre La Grande Cote suggest a blending of some Gewurztraminer into this Sauvignon, the more so given the suggestions of caramelized parsnip and celery root that emerge as this takes on air. Here is an instance where one could wish for a bit more vivacity and sheer refreshment from 2011, but the soothing, mouth-coating effect brings a fair share of this wine’s colorful personality along into a finish whose discreet sweetness is certainly very appropriate to such rich and flamboyant fruit. I imagine this being best enjoyed over the next 6-8 years but as veteran Cotat-watchers know, soft, ripe vintages from these vines and this family can surprise with their stamina. Pascal Cotat – for more on whose methods and (quite literally) garage winery, consult my report in issue 172 – perpetuated a family tradition of late harvest by not beginning to pick in 2011 until the second week of September, yet the results are moderate in alcohol (particularly when compared with those obtained by his cousin Francois, in most instances from neighboring vines) and in the case of the Mont Damnes evince a sense of both vivacity and levity exceptional for this vintage. As for mid-October harvested 2010, just wow! Taken together, these last two vintages show Pascal (with papa Francis still in support) on a roll. A Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93