2006 Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru

Originating – as did last year's corresponding bottling – in the impressively-located string of vineyards Feusselottes-Chatelots-Gruenchers, Pacalet's 2006 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru could easily surprise some tasters with the ripe black fruit, charred meat, and spice aromas and flavors it emits despite its relatively light color. Furthermore, this exhibits a sheer sappy palate intensity and a grip – along with refined tannic structure, subtle creaminess of texture, and underlying sense of chalky extract – that suggest it will be well worth following for a half dozen or more years. Hints of fruit skin, fruit pit, caramel, and citrus zest add further interest. Having heaped all this praise on the wine, though, I must say that I find the elegance, delicacy, and florality of the corresponding village Chambolle every bit as convincing and delightful in its own way, though apt not to keep well for as long. The elevage for his 2006s was a bit precocious, says Pacalet, though this was not for want of his trying to slow things down and give the wines time to fatten on their lees. In most essentials, however – including his fidelity to whole clusters and stems and abhorrence of sulfur – Pacalet treated this crop much as he had its illustrious 2005 predecessor. (For further details on Pacalet's unorthodox methods, readers are encouraged to consult my report in issue 171. And please be aware that these wine demand ideal storage in order not to risk spoilage.) Importer: Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334 8191