2013 Westhofener Morstein Grosses Gewachs

The 2013 Westhofen Morstein Riesling trocken GG Alte Reben is Rock'n Roll in the bottle! Predominantly from 50- to 60-year-old vines, it is an intense yellow in color and no less intense on the nose where this full-bodied, iconic wine offers ripe yet precise and concentrated tropical fruit aromas along with herbal, vegetal and yeasty notes plus brioche, white chocolate, pistachio, tobacco leaf and powdered limestone. The palate is rich, dense and racy-piquant, tightly woven but also transparent and, thus, pure, very mineral (salty) and full of tension. All this well-dosed power concludes in a still slightly astringent finish (which is positive). This full-bodied, elegant wine develops an impressive length and complexity with a grippy finish that is really kicking. However, you should age it for at least 4 years.

I do not know whether Klaus Peter Keller will view this as an insult or a compliment, but to my personal perception the 2013 Morstein has turned out very burgundian in style. The high extract indicates that grapes were once again picked very late, but this high-risk policy has been handsomely rewarded with a velvety texture, great substance and generous body. Of course the cool minerality and fresh juicy fruit are there as ever, but also a sound herbaceous note which I tend to associate with spontaneous fermentation. Almost more powerful in its expression than in preceding years, but with perfect structure. (MS)