2009 Wildrose Estate Aidan Pinot Noir

The 2009 Pinot Noir Aidan Wildrose Vineyard is layered with sweet rose petals, new leather, licorice, sweet herbs and dark raspberries. It shows tremendous richness, power and grace in a refined style that is highly appealing. Floral notes reappear to frame the close. This is a slightly brighter wine then the Eoin. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2021. This is a very strong set of wines from DuMOL and winemaker Andy Smith. Like so many producers, DuMOL is in the midst of a stylistic shift that began around 2005. Smith described some of the estate’s earlier wines as a bit too heavy. Today’s approach emphasizes picking a bit earlier than in the past and places greater emphasis on complexity, structure and acidity. At times, the malolactic fermentations are blocked. The Chardonnays are barrel fermented and aged in oak (50% new) with all of their lees, but there is no stirring of the lees. Tel. (925) 254-8922; www.dumol.com