2020 Emma's Block Mature Vine Pinot Noir

The 2020 Emma's Block Mature Vine Pinot Noir leads with dehydrated cranberry, cherry blossom, graphite and dried star anise. The nose is exotic and restrained at once. This is the entree to the palate which is defined absolutely by the tannins that feel very much like they plume in the wine, like a drop of blood in water. These are wines to feel as much as they are to taste, and this is what helps them stand alone in this place. It’s superb, with unbroken form through the long finish—no strays, no rough edges, no breaks. 13.5% alcohol, sealed under Diam. The vines are east facing and close to the lake, with less afternoon sun (which means it isn't exposed to the extended heat of the afternoon). "There is clay down there which gives the tannins more mobility and animation," says Nick Mills.

Full bottle 1,301 g. From a specific east-facing block on the lakefront where blue clay reefs run laterally through fine schist gravel. Mature vines were grown biodynamically and hand-harvested. Spontaneous fermentation and oak-ageing for two winters before being bottled unfined and unfiltered. Transparent purplish garnet. More evolution on the nose than the rather backward 2019. A little sweeter and juicier and possibly a tiny bit simpler but already lots of fun and a pleasure to drink. Fruit/freshness balance very pleasing. A frank vineyard expression with zero sign of winemaking artifice. (JR)