2017 Oestrich Doosberg Grosses Gewachs
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Tasting notes
As usual, this bottling received roughly 20 months’ élevage and was then allowed time in bottle before release. On the nose, oyster shell and quarry dust mingle with lemon peel and seeds. The polished, glycerol-rich palate adds hickory nut and seedy, prickly gooseberry, and all of these piquant and minerally elements combine for a finish of exceptional grip, whose salinity and bright juiciness satisfy on a visceral level. This leaves the tongue tingling, salivary glands palpitating, and a feeling that you’ll have to scrape to remove mineral deposits from your teeth.
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Average Score
Jancis Robinson MW
Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate
More reviews and scores
Aged on the fine lees until February this year and for another eight weeks until the bottling in April, the 2017 Doosberg Riesling Trocken "GG" is beautifully intense and ripe but also refined and seductive on the raspberry-scented nose. The palate is pure, finessed and salty and reveals ripe, concentrated and very intense fruit without losing the crystalline finesse and purity. The finish is pure, fresh and crisp, very clear and piquant, leaving the palate with very fine tannins and salts. Highly impressive, tight and compact but so generous! Tasted two weeks after the bottling in May 2019.
In the last decade this estate, totally committed to biodynamic viticulture, has risen to the absolute top of Grosse Gewächse ratings, and the 2017 Doosberg totally vindicates that position. With candied and crystallised fruit it smells like a noble sweet Auslese, and this fragrance manifests itself on the palate with lashings of apricot, peach and grapefruit, all very ripe, but totally balanced by an invigorating acidity. Fine spicy and mineral nuances add complexity to the great substance of flavour. An almost electric vibrancy enhances the long finish. (MS)