2004 Dalsheimer Hubacker Trocken Grosses Gewachs
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Tasting notes
The wine that came in from the cold, at least when compared to 2003. The Kellers took a great risk by leaving the harvest for this wine till late November but felt that picking earlier would not have given them the quality they were looking for in a Grosses Gewächs. They were rewarded with a wine which still shows an exceptional harmony between taut body, exotic fruit and strapping acidity. I was bowled over by the 2004 G-Max last year but could not quite raise the same enthusiasm for the Hubacker because of a faint phenolic notion, possibly due to the use of whole-bunch pressing. Great for longevity, but at the expense of sheer hedonism. (MS)
Critic scores
Average Score
Jancis Robinson MW
Jancis Robinson MW
More reviews and scores
Magnum. 13-18 November – latest vintage. 37 hl/ha. Only three magnums and two double magnums left in the Keller cellar. One of KP’s favourite vintages – such a long, slow growing season. Very cool. Skin contact 18-24 hours. Picked at temperatures 4-8 °C. Very fine and vibrant and dry – you can really see a relationship with the 2002. Vibrato. Lime and tension yet lots of fruit too. Exciting. The merest hint of petrol but in a thoroughly good, satisfying way. So youthful! Sparkling fresh. (JR)
Relatively deep gold. Botrytis and opulence on the nose. Pungent. But there is freshness here too. Very complete. Lovely length and energy. Vibrant. Reverberant. So confident! Great tension. Reminds me of the Halenberg. But broader and more complete than the wine that actually was the Halenberg. (JR)
Very reticent nose but great blossomy mouthful of elderflowers and fruit. Apparently it was picked only in November and is certainly extremely attention-grabbing. Worth waiting awhile for the bouquet to develop. (JR)
About the producer
Based in the Rheinhessen, Keller is one of the finest Riesling producers in the world, and has set the benchmark for German Pinot Noir.