2015 EMT Riesling Q.b.A. trocken (Auction)

Named for the family from whom Daniel Wagner in 2001 purchased the small parcel of Heerkretz in which it grew, this auctioned bottling accentuates the zesty grapefruit and lime flavors, compact extract-richness and oily feel found in the corresponding Heerkretz Grosses Gewächs. But there is also rich peary fruit, an alluring, musky florality, a cooling infusion of green herbs and a juicier while no less gripping finish. Overall, this conveys a remarkable combination of richness and energy, albeit without the clarity, salinity or lift exhibited by Wagner’s 2015 Höllberg. (Because it was unclear whether the Rheinhessen VDP would countenance a super-Grosses Gewächs – Loosen markets ”Reserve” Grosse Gewächse, but he’s in a different growing region – Wagner doesn’t advertise this wine’s vineyard of origin on its label.)