2006 Charmes Chambertin

The Geantet-Pansiot 2006 Charmes-Chambertin (from a very chalky portion of the "true" Charmes, and near Griotte) delivers scents and flavors of intensely-ripe blackberry along with rose hip, sassafras, and smoked meat. Palate staining and lip-smacking, this lacks the mineral interest or vivacity of the corresponding Le Poissenot, but is apt to display additional virtues after a few years in bottle, and to be worth following for the better part of a decade. After having been pleasantly surprised – even startled – by the quality of Vincent Geantet's 2005 collection, his 2006s demonstrated his talents in a challenging vintage. Geantet waited until the 25th of September to begin picking. He says that at most 10% of fruit needed to be culled from his crop, because proper vine management minimized problems with under-ripeness, botrytis, or taint of hail. Furthermore, his overall yields – unusually for the vintage – were, he reported, normal. As is routine at this address, a nearly uniform 30% level of new barrels was maintained (without its being obviously noticeable); malos were over well before Spring; and bottling took place during the second winter, leaving no indication in the glass that this was premature. Importer: Kysela Pere et Fils, Winchester, VA; tel. (540) 722-9228