2007 Niederberg Helden Auslese Goldkapsel

Picked out very selectively in the middle of harvest over Thomas Haag’s extensive acreage of old vines in this site, his 2007 Lieser Niederberg Helden Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule continues the limeade theme and buoyancy of the “regular” Auslese, here adding both riper melon fruit and brighter citricity. Ginger, white pepper, and lime zest add a sense of invigorating to the finish and help check the wine’s sweetness. Here, too, are transparency to saline, stony mineral dimensions and sheer verve rare in a honeyed, super-ripe gold capsule Auslese. This opulent beauty will probably be slow to evolve, and I foresee a good three decades of cellar satisfaction. (Incidentally, Haag has taken the unusual step of printing the words “Goldkapsel” or “Lange Goldkapsel” in tiny font on the label so that there is no question about the wine’s identity. But for the record, this carries the A.P.#10.) Thomas Haag has enjoyed another sensationally successful vintage, and given his penchant for extremely ripe, pure Riesling with high residual sugar, it was perhaps not surprising that the virtues of 2007 would dovetail nicely with his favored style. Haag finished harvesting already on October 27, but as he points out, his crew was able to go from morning until evening without significant interruptions thanks to the persistently clear weather. Importer: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. 800 596 9463