2006 Piesporter Goldtropfchen Auslese

There is little chance that the 2006 Piesporter Goldtropfchen Riesling Auslese A.P. #10 will be confused with Haart’s ”regular” Auslese from this vintage, because he has no intention to even release it for another couple of years, and then at an appropriate premium in price. By analysis, this distinctive, single-parcel lot that simply resisted blending with others, is close to the gold capsule bottling (A.P. 12). And perhaps it will be fitted with a gold capsule of its own when the time comes. Pink grapefruit, candied lemon rind, distilled pit fruit essences, and gardenia- and lily-like floral perfume scent the nose. A creamy texture and ravishingly bitter-sweet exchange of honey and citrus zest inform a dense, yet elegant palate. Notes of cassis, mint, cinnamon, and a hint of caramel add further complexity in a long, wafting finish. None of these Haart Auslesen can boast the high acidity that one finds this year in Brauneberg, for instance, and many a 2006 is far more luxuriant and extravagantly ripe, But for clarity, subtle complexity, and an ideal balance of richness and vivacity, this wine is hard to equal. Those lucky enough to latch on to some will want to taste it on release, but then should lock it away for a longer interval. No doubt it will reward more than 30 years of cellaring. The rapid pace of harvest and sheer richness of raw material has led to a line-up slightly reduced in sheer numbers (both at the lower and upper ends of the Pradikat scale), but full of classic Haart wines deserving of long cellaring. “Frankly,” says Theo Haart, “there was a lot out there that you just had to leave hanging.” (Even birds and wild boar, it seems, are genetically disinclined to devour anything that looks as ugly as did these grapes.) Importer: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. (800) 596-9463