2017 EMT Riesling Q.b.A. trocken (Auction)

Although the pungency and piquancy of pear seed and peach kernel grab one’s aromatic attention, on the polished, glossy palate there follows a generous outpouring of juicy, invigoratingly tangy, skin-tinged ripe fruit. Suggestions of green herbs and white tea add intrigue and allure. The vibrancy of this wine’s bell-clear, superbly sustained finish extends to a sparkling sense of active, stony mineral impingement, which, when taken with the aforementioned tang, veritably shakes up the mouth. What a startling sense here of vinous energy transmission! Unfortunately for Wagner’s regular customers as well as the rest of us, bound as we all are by the gavel price, certain retail merchants aggressively bid up the price of this year’s “EMT.” And given the track record that this extremely limited bottling has already accumulated in its three vintages, I fear that its price will never come back down from the stratosphere. (For details concerning Wagner’s “EMT” bottling and its source, consult my review of the corresponding 2015.)