2009 Monzinger Fruhlingsplatzchen Grosses Gewachs

Grapefruit, lime, peat, peach kernel, and a kelp-like and alkaline as well as saline intimation of things maritime combine for aromas and flavors of utter intrigue and mysterious enticement from Schonlebers’ 2009 Monzinger Fruhlingsplatzchen Riesling Grosses Gewachs. There is a nearly explosively dynamic of fruit and mineral elements in this luscious, bright, densely-concentrated yet buoyant and refreshing Riesling. I found my salivary glands pumping and my tongue fluttering after reluctantly spitting this remarkable libation, and its head-scratching complexity of (for lack of another collective expression) “mineral” elements should prove utterly engrossing for at least the next 10-12 years. Werner and Frank Schonleber harvested through nearly the entire month of October, and noted that levels of sugar and total acidity remained fairly constant, while flavors kept improving and malic acid diminishing in favor of tartaric. Speaking of improving, it’s hard for these two vintners to much-improve their by now phenomenal batting average, but no Riesling lover is likely to suffer the least disappointment by buying bottles of Emrich-Schonleber 2009s. Especially at its dry end, this is a collection to describe which seems to call for an extended mineral vocabulary that doesn’t even exist in English or German! And in nobly sweet echelons, the small amount of Riesling the Schonlebers rendered is strikingly successful and informed by an ample if mysterious measure of sheer juiciness. About the absence of Eiswein, Frank Schonleber notes: “We had the feeling that ripeness had simply advanced too far in 2009 to justify leaving any grapes hanging in anticipation of frost.” Imported by Sussex Wine Merchants, Moorestown, NJ; tel. (856) 608 9644; also imported by Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco, CA tel. (877) 389- 9463

Here the herbaceous character of spontaneous fermentation is restrained enough to contribute interest rather than dominate proceedings. There is plenty of room for grapefruit, lime and peaches, with minerally notes given ample opportunity to express themselves. A little more generous than the 2008 but of great elegance nevertheless. Amazing substance and depth of aromas and flavours together with a never-ending finish are destined to fulfil the early promise of great complexity and harmony. (MS)

Delicately floral and something sweetish, almost like vanilla and peach ice cream, though clearly mineral and a touch of grapefruit pith. Aromas carry though to a scented mid palate and a hint of slate, even a light grip on the end. Tight, crisp and racy and surprisingly expressive, though the acidity is a fine corset, definite floral notes. Firm and dense but with elegance and finesse for a powerful long wine. (JH)