1972 Volnay Clos des Ducs
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Tasting notes
Palish red. Decadent balsamic scents and an earthy quality on the nose. Then surprisingly suave and vinous in the mouth, with flavors of red berries, smoked meat and olive tapenade along with a soupçon of porcini. This still shows the high acidity that characterized this very late vintage, but the tannins are totally resolved. Fine-grained if not especially filled in, this wine conveys terrific inner-mouth energy without any corners. I would never recommend holding a 47-year-old Burgundy but this wine still has some grip. (13.1% alcohol; October 14 harvest; 48 h/h)
Critic scores
Average Score
Jancis Robinson MW
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
More reviews and scores
Late season but lots of acidity. Harvest 14 October for Clos des Ducs – one of the latest ever. Yield 48 hl/ha. 13.1% Pale ruby. Hint of Marmite (yeast extract) on the nose. Then charming sweetness. Not dead! And still very pure. Fast fade. Easy and pure but not much more to give. Light dusty violet notes. Drying out. A bit too tart! (JR)
The 1972 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Ducs should have been a write-off given the reputation of the vintage, although experience has told me not to dismiss '72s. Sure enough, it has a respectable if muffled, leathery bouquet with hints of marmalade. The palate is light and simple, but undeniably balanced with unanticipated dried honeyed tones towards the finish. No, it does not have the breeding of the substance of a Clos des Ducs, but I happily finished my glass.
About the producer
Marquis d'Angerville is synonymous with the village of Volnay, having long made some of the village’s finest wines. Best known for its Premier Cru monopole vineyard, Clos des Ducs, this estate crafts fine-boned, elegant styles of Pinot Noir – wines that act as standard-bearers for the appellation.