2021 Dalsheim Oberer Hubacker Riesling GG

Pear and apple notes on both the nose and palate are laced with marjoram and sage and are strongly marked by their pits, making for a very forceful, pungent and piquant presentation with a smoky aura. Along with those aforementioned aromas and flavors, a vivid sense of stoniness prevails, which, taken together with an almost implosive impression of density-without-weight, leads one to think of this wine as tightly-coiled and embryonic. The gripping, nearly implacable finish reinforces that impression with its combination of biting intensity and almost severe stoniness. The source, just as in previous vintages, is the family’s old vines in the Hubacker Einzellage. But in 2021, Keller registered the cadastral designation “Oberer Hubacker” that was used on estate labels before being stricken from the official vineyard register in 1971, and which refers to a ten acre family monopole (as is now also indicated on the label).