2022 Chambertin

Firm reduction renders the nose impossible to accurately assess. Otherwise, there is fine volume, richness and energy to the equally broad-shouldered and mineral-driven flavors that also conclude in a moderately austere, compact and impressively long finale. Patience is once again strongly advised as this is quite tightly wound at present. Drink 2034+

The concentrated and complex aromas of mulberry fruit with a hint of reduction seem almost gamey, accented by smoke and leather hints. The texture is dense and tannic, yet not heavy. This wine has abundant depth but no heaviness and is surprisingly approachable for a wine of this concentration. The grapes are from a parcel of ancient vines, largely fermented as whole clusters that are gently pumped over at the beginning and foot trod at the end; the wine is now ageing in a new cask.

A fine deep purple though not the most saturated. 70% whole bunch. He likes to keep that proportion of juice. This is more backward than the Latricières and Mazis though one can sense the concentration. Some of the white pepper appears alongside the raspberries. Very distinguished, a fine example which is only just beginning to reveal itself. A very graceful finish. Drink 2035-2045+.