2019 Grands Echezeaux

The 2019 Grands Echézeaux Grand Cru was tasted from two bottles. The first, blind at Burgfest, seemed a little hampered by heightened new oak that slightly dried the finish. On reflection, I felt that this is one that demanded considerable aeration. A second bottle, poured at the Domaine, was more accurate, with intense black fruit and black pepper emanating from the 75% whole bunch inclusion, plus light tobacco notes. The palate is very structured and powerful. Whilst the oak does form a carapace that slightly covers the fruit, this example was fresher and more nuanced. That said, I would not touch a bottle for a decade.

The 2019 Grands Echézeaux Grand Cru, matured with 75% whole bunch, is another step up from the Echézeaux. It was the first to finish its malolactic, and it is endowed with intense black fruit, shaved black truffle, freshly rolled tobacco and just a hint of hoisin , all displaying wonderful definition and focus. The palate is medium-bodied with lithe tannins. A "vertical" Grands Echézeaux, it offers almost piercing penetration, live-wire acidity and a very poised finish that, dare I say, reminded me of the Grands Echézeaux from Domaine de la Romanée-Conti. This is very classy and it should evolve into quite a profound wine. Just four barrels produced instead of the usual six.