1999 Brunello di Montalcino

Greppone Mazzi is the Ruffino property in Montalcino and the Brunello is just beginning to reflect the decisive commitment to quality which is the basis of the operating philosophy of Luigi Folonari, now essentially running the show. In that sense, the wines the house is making in Montepulciano and Chianti Classico were more indicative of Ruffino’s current ambitions. The 1999 Brunello di Montalcino is, accordingly, something of a transitional wine, very ripe in its aromas of plums, raisins, and chocolate, solid and of good intensity on the palate, but still slightly dry and not entirely graceful. Ruffino has decided to make a Brunello Riserva, starting in 1999, but one can only hope that this new offering doesn’t weaken the regular bottling by skimming off the best juice. Drink: 2005-2014. Importer: Franciscan Estate, St. Helena, CA; tel. (800) 529-WINE