2010 Chassagne Montrachet Les Chevenottes

Bright pale yellow. Aromas of mirabelle, pineapple and minerals complemented by spicy oak. Densely packed and powerful but silky too, with plenty of thickness of texture to buffer its lemony acidity. Impeccably balanced wine with lingering white flower perfume. This appears to have put on weight during its final months of elevage.

The 2010 Chassagne-Montrachet Chenevottes has more than enough fruit and body to fill out its considerable frame. The overall impression is one of exquisite balance, tension and finesse. Simply put, all the elements are in the right place. A soft, saline-infused fruit caresses the palate on the finish. Anticipated maturity: 2013+. Pierre-Yves Colin and Caroline Morey follow their stunning 2009s with an equally compelling set of 2010s. The 2010s have deep site-specific signatures, rich fruit and plenty of acidity. Fans of this small, but increasingly high profile address will want to flock to these wines. Pierre Yves Colin started picking on September 22. Yields were down just 5-10%, which is pretty remarkable considering the vintage. It was a difficult vintage in the cellar, as malos were late and slow. When I visited last June, virtually all of the wines were still finishing their malos. With the exception of the St. Aubins, the 2010s spent about 18 months in barrel. The St. Aubins were bottled in November 2011. All of the other 2010s were bottled in April 2012. The 2011s, which I tasted from barrel, are very promising, so there is a lot to look forward to. A Daniel Johnnes Selection, imported by Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300; also imported by Bertin Henri Selections, 10900 N.W. 21st Street, Unit 180, Doral, Florida 33172 tel: (305) 343-4054

Reticent nose hints at white flowers and meaty reduction. Less creamy than the Ancegnieres, but with strong acidity giving grip and lift to the lemon and mineral flavors. Lovely cut here.