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No matter how many times you visit, a trip to Maison Leroy never loses its allure. Driving through the quiet streets of Auxey-Duresses, following the soft, chalky blue signs for Leroy that point the way, is always incongruous with the fame of this address. As we’ve written before, you won’t find the grandeur you’d expect from such an illustrious producer – Lalou Bize-Leroy, and her entire team, embodies a rare charm and down-to-earth character that you don’t expect.  I was there to taste the new collection – an occasion which is always remarkable, winding your way through an array of vintages and cuvées of both colours. Bize-Leroy only releases her négociant wines when she feels they are ready to drink, meaning the collection often includes both recent vintages and older wines stretching back 40 or even 50 years. No matter the age, each one has been selected by “Madame” herself, the matriarch with one of Burgundy’s best noses.  This year’s collection is notable for its youth – in all the right ways. Recent collections have included venerable bottles drawn from the property’s extensive cellars – offering a rare chance to taste flawlessly aged fine Burgundy, direct from the producer. This year’s line-up – of course – includes special vintages that will set cellar-hunters’ hearts aflutter, stunning Chardonnay from 1985 and ’79, as well as two reds from 1972, Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru Les Petits Monts and Echezeaux Grand Cru, which Gilles Desprez (Bize-Leroy’s right-hand man) highlighted as some of his personal stand-outs, showing amazing refinement and delicacy, despite their age.  Beyond these historied bottlings, however, you’ll find a selection of wines from the best recent vintages. For the reds, 2018 offers a rich and generous profile, approachable now yet with the depth of fruit to age; 2017 is a vintage of the moment, fully of juicy charm and bright acidity that is irresistible; while there are elegant 2015s and a concentrated 2016.  As for the whites, the 2018s are soft, round and welcoming Chardonnays that nevertheless have everything needed to age, while the thrilling, taut 2014s are just edging into their long drinking window. A similar year, 2010, with high acidity and beautiful balance shines in the line-up – and the vintage is among my favourites for whites.   Desprez notes what a pleasure it is to show these wines, offering a slightly different side to Burgundy for them. Of course, it’s perhaps reflective of current tastes – with a larger range of whites full of vibrant fruit and flinty minerality. For a man fortunate enough to taste more than his fair share of aged Burgundy, these wines are refreshing. While each release is ready for you to pull the cork on, these more youthful releases can also be aged (an excellent excuse to purchase more than one case, if you can, in our view). The line-up this year is really exciting, offering a real range of wines to appeal to all sorts of fine Burgundy drinkers.   We won’t pretend that wines of this level come cheap, but a visit to taste at Maison Leroy reinforces exactly why their name commands such demand. These wines provide a masterclass in fine Burgundy – each one so reflective of its terroir and vintage, archetypal expressions of Burgundian Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Take the 1979 Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru Pucelles in this year’s collection, one of the handful of carefully chosen mature wines that feature. Tasting it in the morning, the nose was gorgeously expressive – pristine and mesmerising, yet took a full hour to open up on the palate. Tasting it later in the day, it was still gorgeous – exactly what aged Chardonnay should be – showing how good white Burgundy can be, and a bottle that I won’t be forgetting any time soon.  Highlights from the 2024 Maison Leroy collection 2017 Bourgogne Rouge, Maison Leroy: Offering all the freshness and juiciness that one can find in 2017 red Burgundies at present, this Bourgogne Rouge offers everything you’d want from regional Pinot Noir. It’s very expressive and youthful on the nose, driven by red berries and sour cherries. The palate is lively and offers immediate pleasure, with a nice, savoury, peppery finish that makes it dangerously enjoyable now. Lovely now, this should drink nicely for the next five to seven years. 1999 Bourgogne Rouge, Maison Leroy: It’s been a few years since we last had a chance to taste Maison Leroy’s 1999 Bourgogne Rouge, and it was very interesting to compare this cuvée with the Hommage à l’An 2000 that was re-released last year. By comparison, the 1999 feels like it is still in its teen-years, with a powerful and concentrated profile compared to its millennial cousin. On the nose, it takes a few minutes to open up, but it is understated, elegant Pinot showing some evolution, with wild berries paired with dried petals. On the palate, it is at first interestingly youthful, led by dark fruit. The tannins are powerful, and the concentration impressive. This is drinking beautifully now and should enter its prime drinking window in two to three years. A fantastic showing for a regional appellation! 2018 Chorey-lès-Beaune, Maison Leroy: The 2018 Chorey-lès-Beaune is very perfumed, exuberant with florals and redcurrants. Always livelier and more fruit-forward than Monthélie (especially in warmer vintages), this often-overlooked terroir offers a beautiful level of complexity. On the palate, crunchy red berry fruit and juicy tannins lead on to a beautiful saltiness towards the finish. Its acidity and freshness beautifully balance the richness of the vintage. This is lovely to drink now and should evolve nicely for the next five to seven years. 2016 Santenay, Maison Leroy: Deep purple in colour, the 2016 Santenay is beautifully restrained when compared to its 2017 and 2018 siblings in this line-up. The discreet nose is lovely, driven by red fruit. The tannins are silky, coating the mouth pleasingly. There’s almost a creaminess to the mid-palate. Concentrated and with superb density, this is drinking well now but will benefit from another few years’ cellaring to show its full potential, it should then evolve beautifully for another eight to 10 years given its concentration. 2015 Côte de Nuits Villages, Maison Leroy: Made with fruit from around Nuits-Saint-Georges and Corgoloin, this offers a more austere nose – but it’s a very elegant and subtle Pinot. On the palate, it’s beautifully concentrated, with polished tannins. It starts with rich dark fruit, and there’s lovely acidity on the mid-palate that leads to a long, savoury finish. This is beautifully approachable now and will age nicely for another seven to 10 years. 2015 Gevrey-Chambertin, Maison Leroy: Tasted just after its Côte de Nuits Villages cousin, the 2015 Gevrey-Chambertin offers a beautifully layered nose, aromatic yet serious. Its palate mirrors the profound nose, dense and concentrated with layer after layer of complexity – much more than one would expect for a village wine. Dark fruit evolves into more earthy and spicy notes, finishing on an almost floral finish. This is so subtle and delicate, a brilliant showing for a wine that can be drunk now but would be even more impressive after three to five extra years in the cellar. 2018 Bourgogne Blanc, Maison Leroy: This is aromatic and very expressive on the nose. The palate offers creamy lactic notes, and it’s got a beautiful texture and depth. It shows the ripness of the warm vintage, yet this is complemented by a backbone of minerality – balancing the rich weight of orchard fruit. Profound and lovely for a mere Bourgogne Blanc. 1998 Bourgogne Blanc, Maison Leroy: On the nose this is driven by citrus fruit. There is the slightest hint of pleasing oxidative tones, with richer fruit, yet not overly so – with the wine in pristine condition. It shows beautiful evolution on the palate, with honeysuckle notes and more exotic fruit – yet acidity that avoids risking any overly ripe or jammy character. A very delicate wine, this food to complement its evolved complexity. Drink in the next three years. 2019 Saint-Aubin, Maison Leroy: This is so fresh on the nose – full of white flowers and juicy white peach, it’s mineral, lovely and expressive. On the palate, however, there’s unexpected density and texture. This is super concentrated and youthful, yet also very enjoyable now – and one of those wines that will keep showing different facets with air, and long after you’ve swallowed a mouthful. This will need time to show its full potential, but is already glorious. 2019 Auxey-Duresses, Maison Leroy: This was our favourite in the line-up of 2019 and 2018s this year. Auxey-Duresses is a village that is often overlooked but that Madame Lalou Bize-Leroy masters. The nose is multilayered, showing riper notes than the Saint-Aubin, but more acidity too, and with a mouthcoating texture that almost feels weightier than the Meursault. This is very 2019, in the sense that it combines great richness and freshness. This is lovely and long, with a finish marked by creamy, lactic notes. Drink it now and over the next five to seven years. 2018 Meursault, Maison Leroy: This offers a dense nose packed with layers of complexity, yet it’s also very subtle and discreet. This will need a bit of time to fully show its character, as the layers peel back in bottle. With aeration, the wine unfurls with richer, riper stone-fruit notes. On the palate, there are hints of creamy, brioche-like notes, along with real density of fruit on the mid-palate – a rich and weighty wine. There’s a lovely long finish. If you can, give it another five to seven years in the cellar, as the wine is so tightly packed and concentrated that you may miss out (although it’s hard to resist now!). 2014 Chassagne-Montrachet, Premier Cru, Les Chenevottes, Maison Leroy: This is very expressive and fragrant on the nose. Still fresh and intense on both the nose and palate, this lively wine speaks of this brilliant white Burgundy vintage – and is only just entering its drinking window. It offers such a complete set of aromas from the rich, ripe notes of fresh fruit to more herbal, citrus notes, all driven by brilliant acidity and a hint of bitterness. Lovely – and one of our favourite whites in the collection this year. 2010 Chassagne-Montrachet, Premier Cru, Morgeot, Maison Leroy: This Morgeot has such a lovely nose, offering a mix of sweet apple and honey-flavoured candies. It is concentrated and powerful on the nose, mature yet still has a lot to say. On the palate, the acidity is striking from the moment the wine touches your tongue. It opens with fresh, mineral, crystalline notes, but this is immediately followed by a wave of ripe yellow fruit, and then some sweet spice which lifts the wine on towards its persistent finish. This is beautiful now and should stay in this zone for another five to seven years. 1979 Puligny-Montrachet, Premier Cru, Les Pucelles, Maison Leroy: With a beautiful golden colour, this is so impressive on the nose, with so much going on: honey, beeswax, frangipane, creamy and lactic notes, candied orange peel, crystallised fruit, it just keeps delivering on the nose. The palate seems a bit muted by comparison, when tasted just after opening – but after an hour or so you’ll find the same level of density and richness here too. All those aromas mingle together and melt into each other, yet there is a sense of harmony, with beautiful acidity throughout. The wine feels like there are so many layers and strands to it, but it is also so complete. Towards the finish, there is a certain salinity that drives the length of the wine, alongside those honeysuckle notes. A real delight that is approaching its prime though still has a lot to say! Drink now through to 2035. The 2024 Maison Leroy collection will be released soon, sign up to find out more, or read more about Maison Leroy and browse all current listings 

Ahead of the annual release from the fabled Maison Leroy, Buying + Partner Director Corentin Margier reports on his pilgrimage to this iconic address in Auxey-Duresses

Tasting the wines in the 2024 Maison Leroy collection – the latest releases from Lalou Bize-Leroy (of Domaine Leroy and Domaine d’Auvenay)

Tasting the 2024 Maison Leroy collection

A masterclass in fine Burgundy: Maison Leroy

Auxey-Duresses is, at best, sleepy. As I rolled into the village on Monday morning, the streets were empty in the grey of a rainy winter’s day – just one retiree trundling slowly toward the boulangerie. But here, in this quiet corner of Burgundy, lies the home of Maison Leroy.  A visit to the négociant arm of the Leroy empire is a chance to look behind the curtain at one of Burgundy’s greatest properties, and the allure of such an audience doesn’t fade – even now, on my 12th visit. The wines are remarkable – and rapidly vanish into the cellars of eager collectors as soon as they’re released.  Despite the prestige of this address and its wines, however, it’s a humble, rural Burgundy charm that reigns supreme. Soon after I arrive, the phone rings – it’s Madame Lalou Bize-Leroy herself calling from the south of France to say hello, apologising that she can’t be there herself and hoping that the wines are showing well. There’s no pretence or politics, just modest and unassuming politesse.  And that style is characterised by the building itself. The Maison feels like a home – one that hasn’t changed for 30 years, with stacks of books squirrelled into every corner and the walls lined with articles, photos, reviews and other mementos. One could spend hours exploring this living archive. In amongst every issue of Bettane & Desseauve’s guide and issues of the Wine Spectator stretching back to the 1990s, there’s a picture of Bize-Leroy with Nixon, while nearby there’s a hand-written note from one Bob Parker.  Each year the Maison releases its annual collection – not just the latest vintage but a curated selection from the house’s extensive reserves, all hand-selected by Lalou Bize-Leroy herself. In September, she and her team start preparing the list, tasting endlessly to decide which wines should be set free into the world the following year. And there is an extensive back-catalogue to choose from – Bize-Leroy has been buying the very best parcels she can find for half a century. Over four months, the team decides what to release – wines that are drinking well or showing something that catches Bize-Leroy’s eye (or, more accurately, her palate).  While each collection used to be extensive, the releases have become increasingly focused. This year sees 10-15 reds and whites – and is particularly appealing to the wine geek. The collection is dominated mainly by 2017 reds and 2018 whites, however each one is paired with a more mature vintage of the same wine (or as close to as possible), stretching back to 1970. Inevitably, the older vintages are available in tiny volumes – but they’re testament to how age-worthy these “mere” négociant bottlings are.  Tasting through the range, the 2017 reds were a particular highlight. Even at 10am it was a challenge to resist swallowing – they are irresistible with their pure, crunchy fruit, so fresh and delicate with great persistence and complexity. The 2018 whites, meanwhile, from a warmer year are only just entering their drinking window and will gain with more time in the cellar.  Last year we couldn’t make it out with Covid restrictions, so it was all the more special to be back at Leroy this week. Emerging once more on Auxey-Duresses’s unassuming streets, I left even more in awe of this amazingly humble address.  Tasting notes: the Maison Leroy 2022 collection White 2018 Bourgogne Blanc: A pale lime-tinged colour, Maison Leroy’s 2018 Bourgogne Blanc is a bit shy at first, but with air opens up to reveal a fresh, floral nose. On the palate, the wine broadens, with layers building in the mouth to bring richness and stone-fruit notes. There’s a slight puppy fat to the texture at present, but this is lifted by vibrant acidity, making for a moreish wine overall. This is very different to last year’s sharper-angled 2017; the 2018 is a much more gourmand wine that will go beautifully with food. Drinking well now, it will age eight to 10 years without breaking a sweat. 2018 Saint-Aubin: Golden and concentrated in colour versus the Bourgogne Blanc, the 2018 Saint-Aubin has a profound, expressive nose – with limey tension. The palate is driven by a mouth-watering salinity, complemented by layers of vibrant citrus – blood orange, lemon and grapefruit – on show. Harmonious and balanced, the finish is long. Might need more time to reveal its full potential, but there’s no doubt that the potential is there.  2018 Meursault: Maison Leroy’s 2018 Meursault is attractive and concentrated with ripe, juicy white peach pulled fresh from a tree in the summer. But it’s far from simple fruit here – with honeycomb and grapefruit adding to the overall profundity. On the palate, there’s incredible tension between the ripeness of the 2018 vintage and a mineral acid backbone. Very vibrant and approachable, this offers depths that defy its status as a village wine. As with the Saint-Aubin, it will offer more with time in bottle.  2018 Meursault, Premier Cru, Les Genevrières: A step up from the village Meursault, the Premier Cru Genevrières offers even more concentration. The deep, complex nose is full of yellow stone-fruit, white blossom and hints of hazelnut. On the palate, it’s mouthcoating, but the concentration is not overblown – there’s precision and focus, with a saline mid-palate and mouth-watering acidity to complement the wine’s generosity. The finish is impressive, combining sharp-angled freshness and the wine’s sumptuous volume. This is built to age but is approachable now. 2014 Chassagne-Montrachet, Premier Cru, Les Chenevottes: The 2014 Chenevottes is expressive on the nose – it’s a wine with a lot to say. There’s a hint of reduction, but beyond that layer upon layer of aromas is revealed, showing different facets. Floral, lime and orange notes evolve on the palate, developing into deeper stone-fruit, ginger and honeysuckle. There’s a wash of salinity on the long finish that lifts the wine. Totally approachable now, this will age effortlessly for 10-15 years. Red 2018 Bourgogne Rouge: The 2018 Bourgogne Rouge from Maison Leroy is beautiful – punching well above the weight of its modest appellation. The nose is poised, perfumed and delicate – with expressive dried rose petals dancing against a backdrop of pure raspberry, wild strawberry and cherry fruit. There’s great density on the mid-palate, the alcohol and tannins seamlessly integrated with vibrant acidity from this warm vintage. It’s our favourite release of the cuvée for several years. 2017 Côte de Beaune Villages: Maison Leroy’s Côte de Beaune Villages is a blend of village fruit; while the exact blend is never disclosed, it can span the whole Côte, from Maranges to Beaune. The nose of the 2017 is exuberant, with sweeter and darker fruit than the Bourgogne Rouge, while a hint of smokiness gives a savoury edge. It’s both fresh and dense on the palate – there’s underlying power, yet the fine tannins make it feel light on its feet. The finish is long, laden with crunchy fruit. Very approachable now.  1997 Côte de Beaune Villages: The 1997 is remarkably dense in colour, with mature aromas of cured meat and very concentrated dark fruit. From a riper vintage versus the 2017, the richness of the fruit is evident here, however there’s still good balance on the palate with plenty of acidity and resolved tannins. It’s at a beautiful point of maturity, unlikely to gain from further ageing, but there’s no rush – with sufficient density to hold for five to 10 years. 2018 Savigny-lès-Beaune: This Savigny-lès-Beaune is deliciously enticing – a nose of archetypal, crunchy sour cherry. While it’s red fruit that draws you in on the nose, the palate shows a more serious side, with complexity building in layers. Freshness and finesse runs through the palate, with a vibrant acid backbone and lifted finish. Verry attractive and approachable, this is a superb, moreish wine that will keep you reaching for more.  2018 Beaune, Premier Cru, Les Montrevenots: This vineyard borders Pommard, sitting just above Beaune Clos des Mouches on a gentle southwest-facing slope. This Premier Cru site instantly shows more depth than the village wines, with an expressive, multi-layered nose with shifting cherry, blackberry, plum and wild strawberry aromas and an alluring hint of smoke. On the palate, the vibrant red fruit and freshness of this site and youthful Pinot Noir mingles with the ripe and serious dark-fruited side of the 2018 vintage. Beautifully balanced, this can be drunk now but will evolve nicely for 10 years or more. 2017 Nuits-Saint-Georges: The shift to the Côte de Nuits is instantly noticeable here. The wine has a deep colour and more austere, serious nose – with dark-fruited power accented by lighter white pepper spice and florals. On the palate, layers of bramble fruit build to create a concentrated and structured wine. There’s a firmer tannic backbone as is typical of Nuits-Saint-Georges, without being overly grippy. With underlying power, this is an aristocrat. The depth and balance here offers great potential, hold onto this for 15 to 20 years at least. 2017 Chambolle-Musigny: This is still beautifully aromatic on the nose, with a delicate, lace-like array of fruit and florals. This is pretty and refined, yet with underlying powerful. There’s a lot happening on the palate, with a certain juiciness balanced by tannins that are already beautifully silken. Despite the supple tannic structure, this feels like a baby – and will only deliver more with time in bottle. The length is stunning, lasting for minutes. Punching well above village level, this was a new favourite in the line-up – and one of the most promising in the range. 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin: This was the most concentrated wine in the line-up – both in terms of colour and aroma. Combining depth, complexity and power, this is impressive, with a multidimensional nose that keeps evolving in the glass, showing different facets from sweet cherry to gentle sweet spice and floral notes. The palate is turbo-charged – mouth-filling and generous, yet all the while retains superb balance. The tannins are chewy and plentiful, yet all wrapped in silk, bringing an overall impression of finesse. There’s incredible length, with a fresh, juicy finish. As with the Chambolle, this will only improve in bottle. It’s interesting to taste it side by side with the Chambolle-Musigny, each anchored in their terroir, but sharing finesse, poise and elegance. Discover more about Maison Leroy or read more Editorial 

Ahead of the 2022 releases from Maison Leroy, our Fine Wine Buying + Partner Director Corentin Margier visited the producer’s headquarters – an unassuming address that belies the greatness of the wines that emerge from its cellars 

Exploring the 2022 releases from the Maison Leroy's headquarters – an unassuming address that belies the greatness of the wines that emerge from its cellars

Exploring Maison Leroy, a humble home 

Maison Leroy: a humble home

Les Chenevottes

Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru

Chassagne-Montrachet

Côte de Beaune

Burgundy

France

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