2004 Bockenauer Felseneck Eiswein

The 2004 Bockenauer Felseneck Riesling Eiswein A.P. #31 comes from a lower (hence colder) part of this site. Sugared plum and candied lemon aromas lead to yet another wine of purity and incredible richness, shot through with citricity. But this fails to exhibit the depth, poise or complexity of this collection’s best (which, granted, set an exceedingly tough quality standard). The finish is long but dominated by sheer sweetness (at well over 200 grams residual sugar!) which – once it lifts – may reveal nuances and further complexity. The daring with which young Tim Frohlich and his parents have approached their work over the past several years and their audacious success in crafting riveting Rieslings that marry intense fruit and distinctive minerality has left me astonished. 2004 sets new standards of quality, and no Riesling lover will want to be deprived of a serious sampling of the results. “Everything just clicked this year,” says Frohlich, without any need to be modest, adding, however, that he had to wait until the end of October before he could even begin harvesting fruit that he considered fully ripe. And in fact, the few less-than-successful wines this year were rather thin and too-prominently acidic, early-harvested dry Kabinett Rieslings. Frohlich was still harvesting clean fruit for dry wines near the end of November. Emboldened by his experiments over the past three years, this year he moved to largely spontaneous fermentation and, where he has inoculated, it is with selected yeasts cultured (by a certain Professor Frohlich – no relation – at the Geisenheim Institute) from the vineyard in question. Acid levels in the fruit were high but generally harmonious, and he never considered adjusting them. The Bockenau vineyards were hailed upon in June but this turned out to be for the best as “nature took care of” the drastic green harvest of a potentially huge crop that in Monzingen had to be done by human hands. Speaking of viticultural labors, in the last two years the Frohlichs have carted 500 tons of natural ameliorant onto the stony Felseneck alone, and that’s no ? well, actually, that’s what much of it is! Incidentally, the Frohlichs have acquired new acreage this year in Monzinger Halenberg, Bockenauer Felseneck and Schlossbockelheimer Felsenberg, plus, beginning next year, they will be farming a prime acre of the famed Schlossbockelheimer Kupfergrube acquired from Paul Anheuser. In short, there isn’t a more exciting winery to watch out for in Germany today. Imported by Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. (800) 596-9463.