2006 Mazis Chambertin

The Roty 2006 Mazis-Chambertin displays liqueur-like richness of cherry and black raspberry, backing up Philippe Roty's general comment about the vintage that if he had not hurried up in harvesting, he'd have ended up with over-ripeness. But for all of the soothing unctuous richness of fruit and glycerin on display here, there is a streak of invigorating, vintage-typical tartness and savory salinity. Alkaline, chalky, and peat-like undertones add to the sense of mineral presence, especially in the wine's long finish. The abundant tannins here are fine-grained and well-covered. I would anticipate at least a dozen years of pleasure from this, but – unless it seizes up – I cannot see any reason to defer the initial pleasure of its company. Philippe Roty is among the many growers to assert that under-ripe fruit rather than rot was what really drove his 2006 selection process. "But, hail or no hail, I do a strict triage regardless; and besides" he notes with a laugh, "it hails every year in at least one part of Marsannay." He picked in a relative hurry the last week of September, because "as far as I'm concerned, above 13% potential alcohol you have surmaturite, and that's not good." Besides, like the Mugneret sisters and a considerable number of other top-notch growers, Roty favors routinely – if only slightly – chaptalizing his entire range to promote longer and, he believes, flavor- and texture-enhancing fermentation. (While I have mentioned in the text of my tasting notes those wines that are part of the personal domaine of Philippe Roty and bottled under his name, I have not reflected this in the naming of the wines, as the same label is used for those as for the Domaine Joseph Roty wines and they are all vinified and aged together by the same team.) Importer: Alain Junguenet, Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; tel. (908) 654-6173