2021 Riesling Kabinett Limestone
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Tasting notes
This cuvée consists, as usual, largely of Kirchspiel but with some contributions from Abtserde and, to a lesser extent, (Oberer) Hubacker. Apple blossom and peony waft from the glass. And “wafting” also describes this delicate and delightful Kabinett’s palate performance, which combines succulence of apple and honeydew melon backed by textural gloss and discreet sweetness with brightness and lime zest. The finish is so bright and zesty that it’s almost tongue-lashing, but in a very positive, stimulating way. A bittersweet liquid, floral perfume lingers along with the refreshing effects of infectious juiciness. The wine dares you to resist the next sip.
Critic scores
Average Score
Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com
David Schildknecht, Vinous
More reviews and scores
This is the only one among the 2021 Kabinetten that is already bottled. 30-year-old vines from Kirchspiel and Abtserde (too young for the Grosse Gewächse wines). The exact origin varies by vintage. This is the Kabinett counterpart to the dry Von der Fels. RS 45 g/l. Intense aroma of sweet herbs, fresh flowers and green fruits. Exotic fruits and even wild strawberries. According to Keller, such aromas are lost if the fruit ripens quickly. Yet this is stony/mineral too, the aroma of just-crushed stones. As it warms up, there is a hint of ginger and sweet spice. Scented on the palate as on the nose. Thanks to the crunchy acidity, the sweetness seems almost to disappear on the finish, giving an intense citrus impression. There’s an electric tension to this mouth-watering wine. It is hard to put it into words but the acidity feels dry. Perfect balance is a mark of the 2021 Kabinetten. (JH)
About the producer
Based in the Rheinhessen, Keller is one of the finest Riesling producers in the world, and has set the benchmark for German Pinot Noir.