2014 Wintricher Ohligsberg [09 15]
Estimated value
Buying options
Tasting notes
From an old vineyard planted in 1925/1926 and with very small grapes that ripen very slowly--and thus late--the dry 2014 Riesling Ohligsberg indicates a super complex and spicy, almost untamed bouquet of roasted fat and tobacco flavors. This is a full-bodied, very elegant and silky, powerful and finesse-full Riesling with great freshness, grip and purity. The finish is complex, salty and very, very long. This is very well defined and with lemon flavors in the aftertaste. Great terroir Riesling that I would love to compare with Rieslings from Heymann-Löwenstein, Schäfer-Fröhlich and Keller.
Critic scores
Average Score
Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate
David Schildknecht, Vinous
More reviews and scores
This issues from 90-year-old vines, and I suspect it has been a long time if ever since these were given an opportunity like this to demonstrate their potential. A nose-tweaking aromatic assault of lemon and grapefruit zests, Latakia tobacco and tincture of iodine serves notice of the multifaceted display to come. Brightly juicy, zesty citrus, smoky tobacco and a sweet-saline, mineral-animal savor that I can only compare to a rich lobster shell reduction wake up the mouth and milk the salivary glands. Yet for all of this Riesling’s vivacity and buoyancy, it also offers oily richness of texture and palpably high extract. The finish – and indeed this performance as a whole, like that of its Goldtröpfchen counterpart – is vibrant, formidable and gripping, offering remarkable evidence that Mosel Riesling was capable of greatness and potential longevity even from a heavily rained-on, rot- and acescence-plagued vintage!