2009 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Auslese

A little stinky on the nose. Honey and flowers and transparency with an undertow of graininess. This should open up and provide lots of classic pleasure. Lots of sugar but quite enough acid to counterbalance it. (JR)

The Prum 2009 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Auslese mingles spiced apple, papaya, pink grapefruit, cassis, and white raisin in a lush, creamily-textured, pungently botrytis-tinged performance full-throated from nose through peacock’s finishing flourish, and hard to beat for sheer diversity and audacity of fruit. If you’re looking for nuance of for characteristics that might be described as in any sense “mineral,” then perhaps in a dozen years you’ll find them here, otherwise search elsewhere. But in reality this is a wine that deserves a long time in the cellar and is apt to retain and add to its present virtues over a 30 year period. The Prums noted that their 2009s (harvested from mid-October to mid-November) were unusually expressive at a young age – even in September when I tasted, little more than a month after most of them were bottled – in that respect contrasting decisively, they thought, with the recalcitrant 2008s. (That’s their opinion, please note. My own enthusiastic account of their young 2008s in issue 187 testifies to my belief that those wines were themselves testifying eloquently, even though in general 2008s were said by their growers to be slow to open.) “Although the acids are very ripe,” notes Manfred Prum of his 2009s – drawing parallels with 1997 – “they are also very present.” This latest collection tops out with Eiswein from both Bernkastel and Graach (which makes two from the Himmelreich in one year, since the 2008 was picked in January, 2009) and a B.A. (or – depending on how it evolves – it may be labeled as T.B.A.) from the Wehlener Sonnenuhr, none of which I have tasted. (In keeping with past practice, I am not normally privy to the A.P.#s of every wine I taste from this collection, and the Prums remain anxious to assure me and my readers that whenever more than one lot of the same name in Kabinett or non-auction Spatlese range is bottled care is exercised to see that the differences will be minimal. In the case of Auslesen, I have however confirmed and included A.P.#s in any instances of two otherwise eponymous wines.) Various importers including: P. J. Valckenberg International, Tulsa, OK; tel. 918 622 0424 and Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA tel. 800 596 9463