2018 Riesling Trocken
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Tasting notes
This is sourced largely from Westhofen but also incorporates fruit from Dalsheim and from the very small Keller vine surface in Mölsheim. It doesn’t qualify as an estate wine because it includes Kirchspiel fruit from another grower. Accordingly, it sports a different label design. Green leafy and herbal notes on the nose translate into a pleasantly cooling sense on the polished palate, while pungently zesty notes of lime and grapefruit anticipate an invigoratingly piquant and tangy but also generously juicy inner-mouth performance. The vibrant, ultra-refreshing, mouthwateringly salt-tinged finish is admirably transparent to chalky and alkaline nuances. This makes quite a quality statement, and I have to believe that there is no need to drink it up anytime soon.
Critic scores
Average Score
Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com
James Suckling
More reviews and scores
Brilliantly pure nectarines, flint, gunpowder, bitter lemons and a touch of green paprika. The acidity seeps into every corner of your palate, painting a wild array of bright lemons and limes. The savage intensity of citrus fruit is tamed by a tense, phenolic line of density and flavor. Drink now or hold.
Bottled. From various vineyards, younger vines (10–15 years), including some from Kirchspiel. Equal parts limey fruit and stony minerality on the nose. That lime-juice purity on the palate, too. Edgy, bright, and remarkably intense for the first-level Riesling. Dry but has terrific fruit sweetness. (JH)
About the producer
Based in the Rheinhessen, Keller is one of the finest Riesling producers in the world, and has set the benchmark for German Pinot Noir.