2009 Barolo Cannubi

(spends its first year in barriques, 15% new, then its second year in big casks): Deep red. Dark, rather modern aromas of black cherry, licorice, violet, espresso and minerals. Quite tight and primary but a bit monolithic today, almost like a barrel sample. But shows excellent density to its dark cassis, floral and mineral flavors. Finishes with building tannins and terrific lingering fruit. This will need a minimum of four to six years in the cellar.

Relatively deep ruby. Very sweet red fruit aroma, more strawberry than cherry. Touch of vanilla sweetness. Hints of leather and more savoury character on the palate, even just a hint of dairy. Dry and grippy on the palate. A complex range of components that does not seem to have melded yet. Chewy finish but I think everything is there just not quite lined up yet. (JH)

The celebrated Cannubi cru showed uneven results in 2009. The 2009 Barolo Cannubi definitely reflects the strong summer sunshine during that year. Slightly overripe tones of raspberry and strawberry emerge from the glass. Once they blow off, the wine reveals nuanced tones of licorice, dark fruit, anisette and dried mint. There’s a touch of softness on the close that makes the wine appealing now. This Barolo is suitable for near-term drinking. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2019. The Scavino family (Enrico and his daughters Enrica and Elisa) carry forth an important family legacy with a wide range of cru-specific wines that brilliantly exhibit individual styles – despite all being made by the same hands. Importer: Banville & Jones Wine Merchants; New York, NY; tel. (212) 268-0906