Prunotto’s Emanuele Baldi has an encyclopedic knowledge of Barolo. Listening to his stories about the last century in the region is fascinating, providing context to how and why Barolo and the surrounding Piedmontese regions have developed as they have. Perhaps one of the biggest developments over this time was the birth of wines from a single Cru or vineyard.  A trend that Prunotto, along with Vietti, started in the early 1960s, these single-vineyard wines completely transformed how Barolo was sold. Today it is rare for producers not to sell both single-vineyard wines as well as their Barolo “Classico” made from a blend of vineyards and regions. But this trend wasn’t necessarily Prunotto’s intention, believing only certain vineyards had the capacity to produce wines as complex as those of the blended Barolos the region had become famous for. It was Prunotto’s winemaker at the time, Beppe Colla, who came up with the idea, inspired by a trip to Burgundy with both Vietti’s Arturo Bersano and the famous Italian wine journalist, Italian gastronome and intellectual Luigi Veronelli. On discovering the region’s obsession with terroir and single-vineyard designations, they recognised the link between the region’s complex soils and wine - something familiar with certain Barolo Crus, which has a distinct imprint. The concept of the single-vineyard Barolo was born. The transition to producing a single-vineyard Barolo was not such a difficult progression, since back then Barolo producers like Prunotto were based in the city of Alba, rather than the vineyard hamlets themselves. Following the harvest, the grapes were brought to the town square on carts and for many grape growers it was only at this point that they bartered their goods with the town’s wine producers. Winemakers, Baldi told me, would famously bargain for the grapes. They would often complain that the prices were too high and that they should come back tomorrow with a better price, with the grapes already decomposing in the growers’ carts. The growers had little option but to drop their prices before their crop became worthless. Prunotto, along with the likes of Pio Cesare, was one of a handful of prestigious producers happy to pay a premium for the best grapes. With no bargaining, they saved precious time (preserving the quality of the fruit), while also securing the cream of the crop. Because different smallholders brought their separate carts of grapes, it became easy to identify the different qualities depending on the vineyards they came from. Initially, Prunotto found the Bussia grapes stood apart from the rest – which is why it became their – and the region’s – first single-vineyard Barolo (along with Vietti’s Rocche di Castiglione) in the 1961 vintage. But why did the Bussia vineyard stand out, earning a solo bottling? The historic region of Bussia (which today represents Upper Bussia) is a perfect amphitheatre of vineyards, in which different parts of the same vineyard produced grapes with different, complementary characteristics that together create a complex wine when fermented.  Baldi feels that Nebbiolo is typically best when it is a blend of different vineyard sites. Most Barolo vineyards on their own, he thinks, don’t provide the balance, intensity, and complexity of a multi-site blend. “Each of the individual vineyards are like parts of an orchestra,” he explains. Each vineyard adds a layer of complexity, whether it be perfume, tannic structure or a rich mid-palate which, if on its own, would be too simple. “Have you ever listened to hours of music played just by a double bass?” Baldi quips. “But some vineyards in Barolo are an orchestra in themselves.” And this is exactly what he, and Prunotto, feel is true for upper Bussia – an amphitheatre that can produce something truly distinct and complex. For Prunotto it is Bussia’s “grace and balance” that sets it apart. Upper Bussia is situated right in the middle of the two dividing styles of Barolo: to its east are the vineyards of Serralunga, known for their tannic structure and power; to its west are the vineyards of La Morra and Barolo, known for their elegance and florality. Upper Bussia is one of the perfectly situated Crus (similar to Cannubi and Rocche di Castiglione), capturing the best of both these styles.  The estate’s two flagship wines – Barolo Bussia and Barolo Riserva Vigna Colonnello – are both from Upper Bussia. Following the success of their 1961 single-vineyard Bussia, Prunotto went on to produce many other single-vineyard cuvées, including the Crus of Ginestra, Cannubi and Barbaresco’s Rabaja and Montestefano, but the winery always kept going back to Bussia, which has become its spiritual home. That’s also why, upon their arrival at Prunotto back in the late 1980s, the Antinori family immediately focused their attention on the Bussia Cru, purchasing seven hectares in the area. Barolo built its reputation on its blends. More often than not, these multi-vineyard blends are wines of fantastic complexity and balance. Today, however, most Barolo producers’ single-vineyard Cru wines are their most prized (and expensive) wines.  Clearly, top Crus such as Bussia, Falletto, Villero, Monprivato and more have developed a huge following amongst collectors and connoisseurs. Prunotto’s and Vietti’s pioneering leap, introducing the concept of single-vineyard wines to the region, brought a new layer of complexity to drinking Barolo. It’s even prompted cartographers to map out the region in extraordinary detail. While multi-site blended Barolos remain an important benchmark for the wider region, showcasing each producer’s blending skills; the success of the Crus in Barolo has left the drinker with a lifetime of discovery – exploring the many different nuances of each single Cru. Browse all Barolo listings

Prunotto was one of the first Barolo estates to produce a single-vineyard “Cru” wine – kickstarting a trend that has transformed the region. We spoke to Emanuele Baldi to find out what inspired the estate

Prunotto was one of the first Barolo estates to produce a single-vineyard “Cru” wine – kickstarting a trend that has transformed the region. We explore 

The birth of Barolo’s Crus

Barolo remains the most important region in the world for Nebbiolo. This variety is one of the world’s most sensitive and difficult to grow, rarely found outside Piedmont. While there are a handful of other high-quality enclaves across Piedmont including Valmaggiore (24km north of Barolo) and the cooler sites of Gattinara and Ghemme – collectively known as Alto Piedmont (or Alto Piemonte), nowhere else matches Barolo and neighbouring Barbaresco for complexity and ageing potential.  The wines are typically pale ruby in colour with grippy tannins, high acidity and a flavour profile of red cherry, mulberry, camphor and rose petal. The grape’s almost transparent character (similar to Pinot Noir) makes it a great transmitter of terroir – producing many nuanced styles, flavours and aromas – from the most delicate and floral to the most structured and mineral, and everywhere in between. It is this complex variety within such a small region that makes the grape, and the varying communes of Barolo, so interesting. Barolo has a cooler microclimate compared to nearby Barbaresco, resulting in a longer ripening season. While this means it is more sensitive to vintage variation, in the best years the wines reach highs unmatched anywhere else. Dry Barolo has been produced in the region since the mid-1800s. A wine that was a favourite amongst the aristocratic families of the Savoy dynasty, it is thought to have been first produced in this style by King Carlo Alberto’s estate in nearby Pollenzo. The aristocracy bankrolled wine production in Barolo, helping the pioneering winemakers at the time – such as Staglieno and the French oenologist Oudart – improve the quality and reputation of the wines. Their aristocratic link earned Barolo the nickname “the king of wines and the wine of kings”. Understanding the variety of styles of Barolo to a large extent depends upon where the grapes are grown. The landscape of Barolo is made up of many small undulating hillsides where exposition, topography and altitude all play important roles in the final character of a wine made in a specific part of the region or vineyard. Historically the sub-regions were not so important, largely due to the fact that Barolo wines existed exclusively as blends of fruit from across the region (often including grapes from the vineyards of Barbaresco). The 1961 vintage, however, represents a significant turning point when both Prunotto and Vietti released single-vineyard Barolos from Barolo Bussia and Rocche di Castiglione. While it was common knowledge amongst the local grape brokers which parts of the valley produced the best Nebbiolo, it wasn’t until the 1970s when these place names first came to print in Luigi Veronelli’s map. At the most basic level Barolo is divided into two valleys: the Central Valley and the Serralunga Valley. The Central Valley – including sub-regions of La Morra, Barolo and Novello – produce a more approachable style, noted for their fragrance and elegance, thought to be due to the distinct blue-grey marl content in the Tortonian soils found in these vineyards. The Serralunga Valley – with its sub-regions of Serralunga d’Alba and Monforte d’Alba – tend to create more powerful, tannic, concentrated wines due to the higher content of clay, limestone and sandstone found in the Serravalian soils. In Castiglione Falletto there is a richer concentration of sandstone and this is generally thought to produce a middle ground between the more structured character of the Serravalian soils and the elegance brought about by the Tortonian soils.  While these variations in soil throughout the sub-regions play some part in the differences in the structure and flavour profile of different Barolos, this is just one factor and should be understood as broad generalisations. The complex terroirs are defined not just by the soils, but by the varying expositions, altitudes, viticutural techniques, clones, pruning and winemaking methods which vary from estate to estate – making it impossible to provide a completely definitive profile of each area.    
A guide to Barolo's communes  There are 11 village communes within the Barolo DOCG: La Morra, Barolo, Castiglione Falletto, Serralunga d’Alba, Cherasco, Diano d’Alba, Grinzane Cavour, Monforte d’Alba, Novello, Roddi and Verduno. Below you’ll find a guide to the distinctive style of the main communes, as well as the best growers from each.  La Morra Wines from La Morra can be some of the most perfumed Barolo, typically with soft, smooth tannins. It is believed that the fine sandy soil of the region is behind the wines’ elegance. As the largest Barolo subregion, however, La Morra is the most diverse both in style and quality. Typically, these wines can be much more approachable in youth and tend to fair better in cooler vintages. Top producers in the region include Roberto Voerzio – who makes a unique style for the region, with strict pruning leading to miniscule yields and austere, tannic wines with long ageing potential. Poderi Oddero is more typical for the commune, producing bright, fruity Barolos with distinctly elegant tannins. Elio Altare is known for more modern-style Barolos which are matured both in traditional large barrels, as well as smaller barriques, and some new oak for their single-vineyard wines. Top vineyards: Brunate, Cerequio, Rocche dell’Annunziata Barolo Similar to La Morra, the Barolo sub-region produces broad, open, velvety Barolo but often with a bit more structure and concentration than those from La Morra. The region is home to some of the most historic sites, including Cannubi – a Cru that was singled out as an exceptional site even before the creation of the Barolo appellation (with the earliest bottled example of this site dating back to 1752). It is also home to some of the most respected producers in the region, who make markedly different styles of Barolo – further confirming that location is only part of the puzzle. Fierce traditionalists Bartolo Mascarello famously don’t make single-vineyard wines but their blended Barolo remains one of the region’s finest. Guiseppe Rinaldi’s winery is also staunchly traditional in their winemaking, seeing cross-commune blends as the ultimate expression of Barolo. winery is also staunchly traditional both in their winemaking, and blending of vineyards, seeing cross-commune blends as the ultimate expression of Barolo. Luciano Sandrone is more modern in style, the wines made in an elegant style that is more approachable in youth but also offers fantastic ageing potential – making them some of the region’s most collectable. Top vineyards: Cannubi, Ravera, Bricco delle Viole Castiglione Falletto  Although situated in the Serralunga valley, Castiglione Falletto falls somewhere in the middle between the elegant and fragrant qualities of La Morra and Barolo, and the boldness and concentration of Serralunga and Monforte. This is due to the aspect of the best slopes here, where the vines have maximum exposure to the sun, meaning riper fruit and added concentration. Giuseppe Mascarello produces one of Barolo’s most famous single-vineyard wines from the Monprivato Cru. Traditional in style, the wine is fermented in tank and aged in large oak. Vietti – a true pioneer of single-Cru Barolos – is also based here, as it has been since the 1800s. This estate has not only some of the best label designs in the world, but access to some of the finest Crus in Barolo, including Ravera, Rocche di Castiglione and Brunate. Top vineyards: Rocche di Castiglione, Fiasco, Villero Serralunga d’Alba  Serralunga is defined by its high concentration of Sant’Agata soils. Growers here talk about the vines feeling pain, as the harder soils put more stress on the vine, producing wines of great depth and power – as well as some of the highest tannin levels and the most full-bodied Barolos of any region. The wines can often have a distinctive bitter orange aroma. The wines are solid and typically austere, but can also be incredibly elegant and expressive, some of the most terroir-driven and long-lasting Barolo. By far the most famous and revered wine from Serralunga is Giacomo Conterno’s Monfortino. Monfortino was in fact the first ever producer-named Barolo made in the Riserva style, with the first vintage made in the 1920s (today it comes from the Cascina Francia Cru). Although based in Barbaresco, Bruno Giacosa produces two of Barolo’s most revered wines from the Serralunga Cru of Falletto, released only in top vintages. These are two of the most consistent expressions of top single-vineyard Nebbiolo in Barolo. Top vineyards: Cascina Francia, Falletto, Ornato Monforte d’Alba Defined by concentration and structure, the soils in Monforte d’Alba contain more clay than limestone – the opposite of Serralunga. The resulting wines tend to have more volume on the palate and boldness, making them the most concentrated Barolos. The wines exhibit classic rose petal, clay pot, clove, camphor and cardamom aromas, and particularly bold tannins. Look out for bottlings from Elio Grasso whose Case Matè Barolo comes from Ginestra. Bussia is one of the most famous, but also largest Crus, producing many different styles. The best part of the vineyard is Upper Bussia; a natural amphitheatre with varying expositions, when combined it produces wines of fantastic complexity. For the ultimate insight into the vineyard, try the wines of Aldo Conterno – who makes five separate bottlings all from the Bussia Cru. Top vineyards: Bussia, Ginestra, Mosconi Browse all Barolo or read more Editorial 

Age-worthy yet terroir transparent, Barolo is a fascinating region. Its complex, varied terroir often draws comparisons with Burgundy. Here we delve into “the king of wines and wine of kings” – from its aristocratic beginnings to the villages, vineyards and producers to look out for.


Your guide to “the king of wines and wine of kings” – Barolo: from its aristocratic beginnings to the villages, vineyards and producers to look out for.

Your definitive guide to Barolo 

Cannubi

Barolo

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