2013 Hermitage Ex Voto

Co-fermented blend of Les Bessards, Les Greffieux, l'Ermite and Murets. Aged for 40 months in 100% new oak barrels. Rich, full, glossy style with peppery spice on the palate and a granitic complexity giving a sense of place. Rounded tannins already, with a very savoury, appetising structure. Finely chiselled, broad physique. (RH)

The 2013 Ermitage Ex Voto is more concentrated as well as structured. Bacon fat, graphite, burning embers, and loads of darker fruits all emerge from this full-bodied, layered, silky Ex Voto that shines for its purity and elegance, all while still packing plenty of fruit. Bottles need 4-5 years, but it’s going to cruise in the cellar two decades. Due to the timing of my visit (which was earlier than normal), I wasn’t able to taste a full lineup from Guigal. Nevertheless, even an abbreviated lineup from Guigal consists of more wines than just about every other producer I taste with. Looking at the 2016s, the white wines, especially from Condrieu, are brilliant and show the more fresh, vibrant style of this cooler, late vintage. The reds are very classic in style across the board. I’ll taste these again, mostly from barrel, next year as well, but this is certainly an excellent vintage. The 2015s, as I’ve written more than once now, are truly spectacular, and after tasting these wines multiple times from barrel now, I completely understand why Marcel Guigal would declare this the greatest vintage of his lifetime. These are rich, voluptuous, massive wines I think will represent a modern-day version of 1978. The 2014s continue to improve every time I taste them, which is common for this estate. Similar, perhaps, to a toned down 2012, these are charming, supple, elegant wines that are vastly more approachable than the 2013s. Lastly, the 2013s from bottle showed the backward, dark, mineral-laced profile of the vintage. They’re beautifully concentrated and terrific wines, yet the cellar is going to be your friend.

The 2013 Hermitage Ex Voto is a great effort given the vintage. It shows all the classic elements of the appellation, from complex notes of leather, meat and spice to crushed stone and grilled plums. Already approachable, this medium to full-bodied wine shows silky tannins and crisp acids on the long finish.