2009 Brunello di Montalcino Cottimelli

An open, resonant wine, the 2009 Brunello di Montalcino impresses for its supple personality and gorgeous overall balance. Sweet tobacco, dried flowers, red cherries and menthol wrap around the palate in a deep, fleshy wine loaded with character. Readers will find plenty of near and medium term appeal here. The 2009 finishes with striking aromatics, sweet red fruit and gorgeous, subtle herbal overtones.

Just mid ruby with a broad orange rim. Obvious oak with a little undergrowth starting to show on the nose. Palate is much less developed. Good freshness but bends off a little on the finish. Ends quite dry. (WS)

The 2009 Brunello di Montalcino is a polished, silky wine with bright berry highlights that are enhanced by balsam herb, cola, light spice, dried tobacco, smoky notes and crushed mineral. The vintage does not have the immediate complexity of other vintages at this young stage, but I’m willing to bet that this wine will steadily increase in layering and expressiveness as it evolves in the bottle. Drink: 2017-2023. I have always admired the work underway at Fuligni. Maria Fuligni and nephew Roberto Guerrini Fuligni deliver consistent results throughout the good years (2001, 2004, 2006 and 2007) as well as the more challenging ones (2003, 2005 and 2008). The secret to this success, in my view, is twofold. First and foremost is the family’s intimate knowledge of their vineyards. There are four sites (Vigna S. Giovanni, Vigna del Ginestreto, Vigna della Bandita and Vigna del Piano) that comprehensively offer a plethora of soil types, exposures, vine ages and altitudes. Each parcel is vinified separately thus awarding enormous winemaking freedom and flexibility. Of course there is also a built-in safety valve in how the grapes are processed. Depending on quality, fruit is destined to Rosso, base Brunello and Riserva accordingly. For example, no Riserva was made in 2008 and the better fruit ended up in the base Brunello. The second secret to Fuligni’s success is courage. The family has shown brass knuckles required to make those difficult decisions. Importer: Empson USA, www.empsonusa.com