2018 Vidal Gold Icewine

The 2018 Gold Vidal Icewine was fermented for about three weeks in new French oak and then aged for another three months in French oak. It comes in with 234 grams of residual sugar, 10.5 of total acidity and 9.5% alcohol. On paper, this should be brighter and fresher than the 2018 unoaked ice wine, but the oak flattens it out. The wood gives it a lusher and richer texture but subdues both the fruit and whatever freshness it had. That's somewhat deceptive, as the acidity is still there, but the perceptible balance certainly changes. This just seems to be more on the stolid and brooding side. On the one hand, that means it never seems to go over the top in unctuousness, but on the other hand, the flavors are rather submerged. I'd personally rather have any of the unoaked versions, but reasonable minds might differ. The price references a half bottle.