2007 Chablis Cote de Lechet

Having, much to my regret, gone through a multitude of prematurely oxidized half bottles, I finally landed upon an exceptional example of Defaix's 2007 Chablis 1er Cru Côte de Léchet. Offering up aromas of buttered citrus, oyster shell, sweet pastry and dried white flowers, it's medium to full-bodied, racy and suave, with impressive flesh on its bones for the vintage, concluding with a mouthwateringly mineral finish. I suspect that in 750-milliliter bottles this may be more robust, but clearly a move to technical closures would improve the consistency of these otherwise superlative wines.