2019 Bonnes Mares

Unwinding in the glass with scents of rose petals, orange rind, sweet soil tones and red fruits, Dujac's 2019 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is, as usual, one of the most backward and reserved wines in the range. Full-bodied, bright and tightly wound, it's vibrant and mineral: the only missing ingredient is time. The 2019 vintage is a terrific success for Domaine Dujac. Perfumed, concentrated and vibrant, with beautifully refined tannins and bright fruit tones despite the warmth and sunshine of the vintage, I'd be happy to own any or all of the cuvées reviewed here. The 2018s, revisited in bottle, have also lived up to my high expectations: More overtly muscular and structured than the 2019s, these are serious wines built for the cellar, but their potential is evident and anyone opening bottles 20 or 30 years from now will be delighted to own them. Of course, readers will be familiar with the outlines of the Dujac approach to producing red Burgundy: organic farming, fermentation in (for the most part) concrete vats with a predominance of whole clusters and élevage in barrels largely sourced from Tonnellerie Rémond. Since Jeremy Seysses took the reins from father Jacques in 2001, there have been evolutions: Inspired by Christophe Roumier, Jeremy seeks to retard malolactic fermentation, he's tried retaining more lees, and there were experiments with leaving the wines unracked throughout their élevage. In the last handful of years, everything appears to have fallen into place in