2019 Clos des Lambrays
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Tasting notes
Domaine des Lambrays’s flagship site is almost but not quite a monopole, with an ouvrée – less than 0.2 of the total 8.84 hectares – at the bottom of the clos belonging to Taupenot-Merme. Yields here were down to a measly 15hl/ha in 2019 – although winemaker Jacques Devauges assigns this partly to their ongoing conversion to organics, but the quality is clearly there. Most of the vines (71%) date from between 1898 and 1935, while the lowest section of the vineyard is 40 years old, and 3% of the vines are spritely 20-somethings. It was fascinating tasting the three sections of this large Grand Cru separately and then as a blend, seeing how each one contributes its own character. There’s the exoticism of the side near Clos de Tart; the more angular, structured and firmer top section; and the intense, vibrant fruit of the section nearest Clos Saint-Denis. Combined, the wine has remarkable concentration – much more than a sum of its parts, building gradually on the palate with layer upon layer of bold, blueberry fruit and sweet-savoury spice, yet plenty of the vintage’s moreish acidity. As Jacques said rather modestly, “You want to drink it.” We might be inclined to go a little further, given the quality and ageing potential on show here – but it’s hard to resist now.
Critic scores
Average Score
Neal Martin
Decanter
More reviews and scores
Their first organic vintage. Deep garnet. Muscular. Slightly roughly extracted with a grainy finish after a rich, sweet palate. Certainly makes an impression and has grand cru weight. (JR)
The 2019 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru Grand Cru has a very typical bouquet for the vineyard: quite floral in style and predominantly red-fruited, touches of kirsch and black truffle shavings and a light marine scent that emerges with time. The palate has a sweet core of fruit that lends this Morey an almost Vosne-like allure. The whole-bunch is very well integrated. This is a better showing than at the Burgfest tasting just a couple of months earlier. Tasted at the Clos des Lambrays vertical in Morey-Saint-Denis.
The 2019 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru has a powerful, burly nose with just a touch of VA that shaves off its potential focus. Kirsch and boysenberry are front and center, but too confit -like. The palate is medium-bodied, with quite firm tannins and gentle grip, the acidity here binding everything together nicely. There is uncommon linearity to this 2019, but it doesn't really engage or charm on the finish. I just don't think this is the best bottle of this wine, having impressed both in barrel and just after bottling—hence my question mark. Tasted blind at the Burgfest tasting.
About the producer
Domaine des Lambrays is one of Morey-Saint-Denis’s most famous estates, its history closely tied to the Grand Cru from which it takes its name – Clos des Lambrays.