2018 Brunnenhauschen Riesling Grosses Gewachs
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Tasting notes
Subtly floral and coolingly herbal scents – typical of this site and here suggestive of gentian and thyme – offer welcome respite from the relentlessly chalky and piquant assault launched by so many Wittmann Rieslings on the nose, not to mention on the palate. The flowers and herbs are accompanied by intimations of apple, white peach and lime anticipating the sappy, juicy profusion of fruit – that, too, a departure from the prevailing Wittmann Riesling personality – delivered on a polished, glossy subtly silken palate. Luscious pit fruitiness, brightly juicy citricity, subtle chalkiness and salinity combine with savory and herbal elements for a mouthwatering evocation of raw oyster. Billowing inner-mouth floral perfume further informs a sustained, delightfully and intriguingly interactive finish that compels the next sip. Striking here, too, is the sense of lift for a wine of 13% alcohol.
Critic scores
Average Score
Jancis Robinson MW
Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate
More reviews and scores
The 2018 Brunnenhäuschen Riesling GG is pure and intense on the flinty, refined and elegant nose. On the palate, this is a rich and salty-piquant, fresh and fine Riesling with finesse, fine tannins (like clayey slate plates), juicy and intense stone fruit and a long, intense and powerful finish. Great wine! Tasted at the domaine in March 2020.
Although there is ample fruit on the nose, the Brunnenhäuschen does not indulge in the more tropical touches of its stablemates. This noble restraint serves it well on the palate, where cooler notions of stony mineral and fresh herbs get a good look in and put more emphasis on elegance rather than opulence of expression. Acidity is well pitched to add some vibrancy to the finish. (MS)