2018 Piesporter Goldtropchen 16 19

Zesty white grapefruit, tingling pineapple core, sizzlingly pungent sage and incisive cress – all anticipated on a penetrating nose – collaborate on a firm palate for a performance of invigoration and cut strikingly at odds with typical vintage 2018 character. Given pronounced piquancy, considerable acidity and residual sugar of just one gram, it would be easy for this bottling to turn overly austere, but mouthwatering salinity and bright citric juiciness keep that from happening. The finish delivers rapier penetration and prodigious persistence. This “Grosses Gewächs” (as Haart calls but doesn’t label it) represents a remarkably focused and mouth-shakingly energetic expression of Goldtröpfchen, especially for 2018.